Column by Stacey Abell
Many of my favorite recipes are inspired by the foods and flavors of other cultures. As of late, I have been pondering the responsibility I have when I present recipes inspired by a culture that is not my own.
This line of thinking was sparked by an NPR article entitled, “When Chefs Become Famous Cooking Other Culture’s Food.” I am not a chef, nor am I famous, but I felt like the topic addressed in this article is one that I had not previously considered.
This particular article centered on Rick Bayless, a chef and restaurateur. The following question was asked: is it okay for a guy from Oklahoma to become the nation’s ambassador for Mexican cuisine?
Bayless has spent years traveling through Mexico and studying the food, culture, and language, and has managed to establish one of the top fine dining establishments in Chicago, focusing on Mexican haute cuisine. Detractors believe that his advantages of race and class have allowed him to succeed, while the ventures of chefs born into the culture but without those privileges have not been as profitable.
Overall, the consensus in the comment section seemed to be that if the food was well-made with a passion for quality and a knowledge of and respect for the culture that inspired it, there shouldn’t be a problem. After all, California-born Julia Child made a name for herself by introducing French cuisine to home cooks across the United States. Still, this remains a complex issue with strong opinions on all sides.
I like to experiment and play with different ideas and ingredients. My recipes may not be as authentic family recipes that have been passed down through the generations (and I don’t present them as such), but I love the influences that the cultures of the world have added to my palette of flavors.
With all of that being said, I’ve been craving goi cuon, or fresh spring rolls recently. Unfortunately, I haven’t had the chance to go to a Thai or Vietnamese restaurant, and I don’t have any rice paper wrappers in my pantry. So, I decided to try my hand at a deconstructed spring roll or spring roll salad. I transformed my usual hoisin dipping sauce into a vinaigrette and included all of my favorite spring roll ingredients.
I prefer butter lettuce in my spring rolls, but any leaf lettuce will do. Red lettuce would make an especially pretty presentation with the burgundy tinge to its leaves. Poached, sliced chicken breast could also be substituted for the shrimp. This salad makes the perfect light meal and can even make the trip to work if packed in a Mason jar.
Spring Roll Salad
Makes 4 servings
1 8-ounce package rice vermicelli
1 head butter lettuce
1 cucumber, peeled and julienned
2 carrots, peeled and cut into ribbons
½ cup cilantro, loosely packed
¼ cup mint leaves, loosely packed
¼ cup green onions or chives, minced
½ pound cooked shrimp
½ cup cashews or peanuts, chopped
Dressing:
¼ cup hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lime juice
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons sugar
Place rice vermicelli in a large heat-proof bowl. Bring some water to a boil (enough to cover the noodles). Pour boiling water over the noodles and let sit for 3 to 5 minutes or until softened. Drain, rinse in cool water, and set aside.
Tear the butter lettuce into bite-size pieces and place in a serving bowl. Add the carrot ribbons, cucumber, cilantro, mint, and green onions to the bowl and toss to combine.
With kitchen shears, cut the rice vermicelli a few times into shorter pieces. Mound the rice noodles in the center of the bowl and arrange the shrimp around it. Sprinkle chopped nuts over the top and garnish with additional cilantro and/or mint leaves if desired.
Combine dressing ingredients, stirring until sugar is dissolved.
Drizzle dressing over top just before serving and toss to combine.
This salad can also be layered into Mason jars, starting with the carrots and cucumbers on the bottom, noodles, and shrimp in the middle, and lettuce and garnishes on top.
Photo by Stacey Abell