By William Smith
Community Editor
Jared Kaulukukui, chef and owner of the new Hawaiiowan Café, has a bit of that Food Network megastar vibe to him.
His soft-spoken confidence is indicative of a 25-year culinary career that started in his hometown of Waimea, Hawaii. Trained at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Scottsdale, Ariz., he moved to Las Vegas to work at a 4.5 star French Bistro.
He worked at a restaurant in Hawaii long before that, always fostering a love for cooking.
After coming to Burlington to work for the now-defunct 322 Bistro several years ago, Kaulukukui jetted off to Thailand to become a chef at a resort hotel. He stayed there for a year and often found himself talking to local youth — entirely in English — to help them master the language.
English was the dominant language of the hotel, which served as a melting pot of cultures.
“It was really different. The people there are so nice,” he said.
Kaulukukui returned to Burlington in 2016 to help open the Krafted Bar and Bistro, which closed at the end of May. By then, he was ready to strike out on his own.
A few months ago, Kaulukukui opened The Hawaiiowan at 208 N. Fourth St.
The small, intimate space was most recently occupied by the Major Oak British Cafe and Restaurant, which moved to Fort Madison.
Kaulukukui sees size as an advantage rather than a limitation. He wants to see who he’s serving.
He wants to help newbies to his cuisine find a dish to suit their tastes — even if those tastes aren’t as well-traveled as his.
“A lot of people haven’t had fresh coconut, and when you crack it open and they try it, they really like it,” he said. “I love to see the smiles on their faces.”
The intimate eatery fits the style of restaurant Kaulukukui envisioned.
Eleven tables, 34 seats, and a menu that spans his worldwide knowledge of cuisine — a little bit Thai, a dash of Italian, and a generous peppering of French, with a focus on Hawaiian food.
“I only put it on the menu if I would eat it,” he said.
Intimacy doesn’t translate into a stuffy atmosphere, and there is no dress code or high society expectations.
Kaulukukui is far too cool and casual to put on such airs.
That’s why his restaurant’s tagline sounds like the beginning of a Nirvana song.
“Come as you are,” he said. “Just leave the mud outside.”
Despite his intentional lack of hard advertising, reservations have been piling up since the restaurant’s soft opening a few weeks ago.
“I didn’t want to put a big sign out here or anything,” he said, pointing to the restaurant’s nearly hidden door.
But the secret is out, and reservations are strongly recommended. Large groups should make a reservation at least a week in advance.
Reservations for couples or groups can be made by calling the restaurant at 319-371-2034.